House of Nanking

Very good Chinese food, enough to draw crowds and fill the house despite not having the most glamorous decor or the best surroundings. Is an indifferent ambiance a sign of an excellent meal?

The House of Nanking, San Francisco

Suppose you are in San Francisco, on the border of Chinatown and North Beach, and in need of a good place to eat on the cheap. Just follow the crowds; they will surely lead you to the House of Nanking.

You may well see people lined up outside before you turn the corner to reach the door. Though it is not on one of the city's posh blocks, the House of Nanking is usually packed.

What does this restaurant have to draw the crowds?

Once inside, you can't help but wonder what the buzz is about. The surroundings are not pleasing, and there is little in the way of decor. When I visited, the tables were cramped and wobbly, so my food would not sit still. The staff were curt and in a hurry; consider yourself lucky if you get a menu.

So what is it?

Of course, it is the food. Once you have the first taste, you will forgive and forget anything else. On a friend's recommendation, I tried the Paul Bunyan-sized scallion pancakes as an appetizer. They were spicy, but the sweetness of the sauce and the scallions mixed well. One could easily get hooked on them.

You can order whatever takes your fancy from the entrees, but if you tell your server you're new to the place, you may be steered toward a sampling of house favorites. I enjoyed chicken and shrimp drenched in garlic sauce. The vegetables were shredded impossibly thin, so they went down easily even if you are not a vegetable lover. It all went down smoothly with a Tsingtao beer, another recommendation.

What is the buzz? Skillfully prepared dishes that aim to please you, at a fair price.

Rating

The House of Nanking

919 Kearny Street, near Columbus Avenue, on the border between Chinatown and North Beach
San Francisco, California

Food: very good

Ambiance: poor

Service: average

Cost: $

Menus, hours and prices change, so check with the restaurant before you go.

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